You saw it here first. Thanks to an English assignment requesting directions, you now have passed down to you my knowledge as the first and hopefully not last HvZ sabersmith.

Take note- The electronics part of this tut can be completely skipped and the PolyC pipe fully extended into the handle for an extremely safe and sturdy boffer. If exposed screws are a concern for you, make counter-bores with your drill and use flat head machine screws instead (EDIT: You can also permanently seal the plugs shut with glue instead of using screws at all). You can temporarily cover these over with foam if you wish.

A modified form of these instructions will probably be going on WikiHow later. I will clean this version up some as well, especially if anyone's confused- this is basically the final draft I'd turned in for class, minus the formatting due to HTML conversion issues. Pictures and possibly a video tutorial may come out sometime after the semester ends. Enjoy!

Love,
Vardarac (Name changed from previous forum for political correctness and shinier posterity)

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HOW TO CREATE A GLOWING FOAM LIGHTSABER

The technology to make glowing energy blades isn’t out just yet, but this foam lightsaber is the next best thing! Whether your kids are Jedi knights for next Halloween or you’re a bored college student looking to cut zombies down in style, you can go all out with these foam lightsabers that light up and are safe to hit with. These directions are written for foam swords that can be used in University of Maryland Humans vs. Zombies games.

WHAT YOU'LL NEED:

NON-ELECTRICAL MATERIALS:
White polyethylene pool noodle, 26 or more inches in length
25+ inch section polycarbonate pipe, 3/8” - 3/4" in outer diameter, at least 1/4" in inner diameter
Silicone sealant and applicator gun
9+ inch section PVC pipe, 1.5" outer diameter with 1.25" inner diameter
2 PVC plugs (not caps) that fit into the PVC Pipe
6-8 small machine screws, 3/8-1/2” length, Phillips or slotted, pan head
6-8 insert nuts for wood, strongest material you can get, sized to fit screws
A small block or round of rigid, easily drilled material, preferably sized to fit the hollow space inside a PVC plug
Heavy-duty epoxy
Polyethylene foam pipe insulation
Plastic glue (PVC to Polyethylene)
Double- or single-sided foam tape, as large a size as possible
Masking tape
Spray paint primer for PVC
Silver or chrome lacquer spray paint for primed plastics
Clear lacquer spray coat
Thin, non-corrugated cardboard
1.5 yards sheer white cloth, such as acrylic or nylon 
ELECTRICAL MATERIALS:
Soft push-button switch
60 4.8-5mm LEDs (color of choice) or 1 high-power lamp-type LED with heatsink, focusing lens (color of choice), and aluminum foil
Rechargeable batteries (Li-Ion or NiMH, amount depending on LED voltage)
Battery holder, capacity depending on LED voltage and desired battery size
Wire, multi-threaded, 18 or less in gauge
Solder, rosin core, 60/40
Heatshrink, at least two colors
Electrical tape
Anti-static wristband

TOOLS:
Drill (1/8" diameter) or Dremel with drill bit
Soldering gun/iron, 15-30W
Heat gun, hair dryer, or lighter
Edge or table saw or a Dremel with metal cutting wheel; hacksaws not recommended
Scissors or wire stripper
Needle-nose pliers with wire cutter
Drawing compass
Removable marking pen
Coarse sandpaper or sanding tool
Yardstick or tape measure
Ruler
Sharp crafting knife
Screwdrivers, heads that match the screws and insert nuts

BUILDING THE SABER:
Read through these directions before going out and buying anything. Read the precautions before starting to build. Read through each step completely before doing it. Make sure you understand the purpose of each part and tool on the list. Carefully plan out how everything will fit together. Sizes and shapes will vary based on where you buy your parts.

Prepping the Handle

1. Add a PVC plug to the PVC pipe. Measure and write down the length of the exposed part of the plug that runs parallel to the pipe. Measure and write down the thickness of the foam insulation. Subtract two of the measured plug lengths as well as the thickness of the insulation from a length of nine inches. Write down this length! Remove the plug.

2. Cut the PVC pipe as evenly as possible to the length you calculated in step 1. This pipe is the handle of the saber.

3. Drill and round out a hole about 1.25” from one end of the saber handle with a diameter just large enough to fit the switch. This end of the handle is the “blade side.”

4. Skip this step if the PVC plugs are solid. Cut the block of rigid material to fit as precisely inside the hollowed portion of the plug as you can (if the block doesn’t already fit). Glue the block to the inside of the plug using epoxy. Allow the epoxy to set before continuing. This blocked plug goes on the blade side of the handle. The other plug is the battery cover.

5. Add the blade side plug to the side of the pipe that has the hole for the switch. Holding the plug and pipe together firmly, drill three to four narrow, evenly-spaced pilot holes for the screw insert nuts around the circumference of both pipe and plug. Do not make these holes wider than the thread of the screws. The holes may be too wide to secure the pipe to the plug.

6. Remove the plug from the pipe. Install the insert nuts into the plug with the screwdriver so that the insert nut surface is flush with the pipe surface. Insert the plug into the pipe again. Tap the screws through the pipe (and align the screw threads with those of the insert nuts) by firmly pressing the screws in and turning clockwise. If you have trouble with this step, you may want to widen the pipe screw holes by rounding them out with the drill, paying attention to the warning in step 5. Remove the screws and the plug from the handle.

7. Repeat steps 5 and 6 for the other plug on the other side of the PVC pipe. Remember which plug goes on which side of the pipe.
 
Blade Assembly

8. Measure and write down the thickness of the pool noodle.

9. Cut the polycarbonate tube to a length of about 26 inches plus the length of the PVC plug.

10. Drill and round out a hole as close to the center of the flat end of the blade end PVC plug as you can. The hole must run parallel to the plug, go completely through the plug, and have a diameter just large enough to accommodate either end of the polycarbonate pipe.

11. Apply epoxy evenly to the sides of the new hole in the plug. Slide an inch or two of the polycarbonate pipe through the hollow so that at least 25 inches of the polycarbonate pipe are left sticking out of the wide end of the plug (the end that faces away from the handle when the plug is put in).

12. Make sure that the polycarbonate pipe is centered and sticking straight out from the plug; if not, straighten and hold the pipe in the straightened position until the epoxy sets.

13. Slice the pool noodle down to 25 inches in length using the craft knife. Wait for the pipe’s epoxy to set before continuing.

14. Cut the exposed polycarbonate pipe to a length of 25 inches minus the thickness of the pool noodle. Record this length.

15. Slide the pool noodle over the polycarbonate pipe in the blade plug. Completely center the side of the pool noodle facing the plug. Cover any exposed surfaces on the pool noodle that are facing the plug with masking tape to prevent epoxy in the next steps from getting on unwanted surfaces. Remove the pool noodle.

16. Quickly spread epoxy around the wide end of the plug, around the exposed polycarbonate pipe.

17. Quickly, generously, and evenly apply silicone sealant to the entire exposed surface of the polycarbonate pipe using the sealant gun. Be careful not to mix the sealant with the epoxy, as this releases fumes and may weaken the epoxy.

18. Quickly slide the pool noodle completely over the polycarbonate pipe with the side of the pool noodle covered in masking tape facing the epoxy-covered side of the plug.

19. Wiggle each section of the pool noodle around the pipe so that the inner surface of the noodle is covered as completely as possible by the silicone sealant. Completely untwist and center the pool noodle after wiggling.

20. Press the pool noodle and blade plug together firmly to ensure a good seal, making sure the pool noodle remains centered and untwisted. Keep the two parts pressed together firmly until the epoxy has completely set. Books or other heavy objects on an appropriately-sized table are an easy way to apply pressure. Allow the epoxy and sealant to fully set.

21. Cut a piece of spare pool noodle material to plug the hole at the end of the pool noodle blade. Apply plastic glue to edges of the piece that face the inside of the blade before putting the piece in. Allow the glue to set.

22. Remove the masking tape from the pool noodle blade.

23. Cover all exposed surfaces the blade in a single tight layer of the sheer cloth; use plastic glue or secure the cloth to itself with stitches at the bottom of the blade.

Electronics

24. Ensure that you are in a well-ventilated room for the steps in this section. Ground yourself. Wear anti-static equipment when working with LEDs in this section.

25. Place the battery holder on a table in front of the battery cover side of the handle. Leave both leads of the battery holder left completely extended with the positive lead facing fully away from the handle. Place the blade assembly behind the blade side of the handle with the blade facing away from the handle.

26. Cut more than enough wire to cover the distance from the end of the positive lead to the center of the switch hole when the wire is fully relaxed.

27. Curl and gently twist together the end of the positive lead and one end of the wire around one another. Thread the other end of the wire through the battery cover end of the handle, then through the switch hole.

28. Solder the curled lead and wire together. Cover this soldered joint with one color of heatshrink using the heat gun, hair dryer, or lighter.

29. Remove any fastening nuts and washers from the switch. Curl and gently twist the end of the wire threaded through the switch hole around one lead of the switch. Solder the switch lead and the end of the wire together. Carefully cover the solder joint with the same color of heatshrink or wrap with electrical tape.

30. Thread wire loosely from the negative lead of the battery holder, through the battery cover side to the blade side of the handle, and then to the polycarbonate pipe opening of the blade assembly. Cut this wire from the spool.

31. Curl and lightly twist together the end of the negative lead and the closest end of the wire in the previous step around one another.

32. Solder the curled lead and wire together. Cover this soldered joint with a different color of heatshrink. Remember which color of heatshrink goes to positive and which goes to negative.

33. If you are using a single hi-power LED, assemble the parts now according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Otherwise, do steps 34-42 for an LED array.

LED Array

34. Cut out a rectangular piece of cardboard about 12 millimeters in length and 2 inches in width.

35. Slowly and gently bend the leads of one LED so that they point opposite from one another, face outward from the LED, and run parallel to the LED’s flat outer casing and the plane of the LED’s internal parts.

36. Place a piece of cardboard against the LED’s bent leads so that the cardboard is flush with the flat side of the LED’s casing. Cut this cardboard into a strip running perpendicular to the leads that is about a lead’s width wider than the LED casing on both sides of the casing.

37. Hold the leads in place where they meet the cardboard. While holding, slowly and gently bend the leads around this strip until they form a 90 degree angle with the direction they were facing before. The leads should now each have two 90 degree bends: one at the base of the LED casing and a second just beyond the edges of the casing.

38. Bend the leads around the 12 mm card board piece so that both leads that are bent at a ninety degree angle 12 mm from the casing.

39. Repeat the bending steps for all of the LEDs.

40. Align the positive and negative leads of two LEDs (short leads to short leads, long leads to long leads). Bend just the outermost bent part of the leads of one LED around the middle bent parts of another, next to the other LED’s casing. Ensure the linkage between each LED is tight at each point and that the chain is pointing in one direction. Tighten the joints and straighten the chain if not. Secure the leads at each joint together with a firm squeeze from needle-nose pliers.

41. Solder the LEDs together at each point where leads are bent around one another. Repeat this and the previous step for as many LEDs as you need to fill the space in the blade’s polycarbonate core.

42. Align the blade assembly with the appropriate screw holes on the handle. Keeping this alignment, slide the LED chain, LED casing-side first, all the way into the polycarbonate pipe of the blade. Leave the two leads of the final LED out of the pipe.

Electronics (continued)

43. Solder the wire connected to the negative lead of the battery holder to the negative lead of the LED chain or high-power LED. Wrap the solder joint in electrical tape for an LED chain.

44. Cut more than enough wire to cover the distance from the positive lead of the LED chain or high-power LED to the switch hole in the handle. Solder this wire to the positive lead of the LED chain or high-power LED. Wrap the solder joint in electrical tape for an LED chain.

45. Thread the other end of the wire through the switch hole. Curl the wire around and solder the wire to the other lead of the switch. Carefully cover the solder joint with heatshrink denoting the positive wire or wrap with electrical tape.

46. Apply plastic glue to the switch if it does not have any fastening nuts. Push the switch through its hole in the handle and then fasten it to the handle if it has a fastening nut by twisting until the nut is tight. Allow the plastic glue to set if used.

47. If you’re using one, tape the high-power LED to a small cylindrical chunk of aluminum foil to further absorb heat, being careful not to tape over the emitter. Tape the entire contraption to the blade plug with the LED emitter facing the inside of the polycarbonate pipe. Test the fit of the blade plug and LED in the handle now. Make any necessary adjustments as necessary to the aluminum foil ball so that it fits. Cover the aluminum foil ball in tape or another thin insulating, non-flammable material.

48. If you’re using an LED array, wrap the double-sided foam tape around both leads and/or wires protruding from the polycarbonate pipe and then around the tape itself so that a spiral of foam tape surrounds the leads or wires. Continue until the spiral is almost as wide as the blade plug. Cover any exposed sticky surfaces with one-sided masking tape or another material. Tape this tape spiral to the blade plug.

49. Install the batteries in the holder and test the lightsaber electronics by pressing the switch. If it doesn’t work, make sure that all of the soldering steps were completed properly and that all positive and negative leads are properly aligned. Turn off the switch when done testing. Carefully put the battery holder and wires inside the handle.
Final Assembly and Decorating the Handle

50. Stuff the blade plug into the handle and install the screws in the appropriate insert nuts. Repeat this step with the battery cover plug.

51. Grab the handle with the bottom of your hand at least three inches above the end of the battery cover. Outline your hand with the marking pen.

52. Cut out pieces of foam insulation using the crafting knife to comfortably fit around any parts of the handle that you did not grip, except for the very bottom of the battery cover. Fill any gaps with more foam insulation.

53. Test fit these foam pieces to your handle. Note where the switch and screws are; mark these spots on the foam insulation and cut holes in the insulation to just accommodate them using the crafting knife.

54. Attach the foam pieces in the appropriate places on your handle using the plastic glue. Allow the glue to set.

55. Measure the radius of your handle plus the foam. Draw and cut out a circle of foam insulation with this radius using a compass and a ruler. Glue the circle to the bottom of the battery cover so that all of the foam insulation lines up. Allow the glue to set.

56. Unscrew and remove your blade from the handle. Cover all non-PVC surfaces on the handle with masking tape.

57. Prime the PVC surface of the handle by rubbing vigorously with sandpaper and applying primer, if the spray paint requires it. Let dry fully. It may be necessary to wait several hours or days after primer is applied for best painting results.

58. Spray paint the handle now. Let dry and repeat with one or more layers, if necessary.

59. Add a lacquer, sealant, or protectant to the spray paint once the last layer has fully dried.

60. Remove all masking tape from the handle. Put the blade back in and fasten the screws. You’re done! Breathe a sigh of relief.

Warnings and Tips

- Soldering is a fire and health hazard. Soldering fumes contain irritating pine resins and possibly carcinogenic lead oxides. Always solder in well-ventilated areas, use proper soldering technique, and unplug any soldering tools when not in use. Do not attempt to solder anything until you have familiarized yourself with the basics. An excellent guide to soldering can be found on YouTube:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I_NU2ruzyc4

- Spray painting should also be done in outdoor or well-ventilated areas. Use test surfaces first to figure out how much paint to apply and how far to hold the surface you’re painting from the can.

- Use caution and common sense when dealing with heat sources for your heatshrink as well as when working with the batteries. Never create short circuits by directly connecting your negative and positive leads!

- Many of the materials on the list can be very hard to find. Most electronics you can find online or at your local Radio Shack. Non-electronic tools and parts can be found at a local hardware store. You can also ask neighbors and friends to use their tools. Hardest to find of all is usually a white pool noodle. Pool supply stores usually carry these during the summer. If you can’t find them, just go with a regular pool noodle that is as close a color to your LEDs as possible.

- Although the saber is designed for safe hits, avoid hitting others in the head, face, or groin. Also don’t bash others with the handle. Again, common sense is appropriate here.

Acknowledgements

Thanks go to Makoto Tsai for creating a tutorial on LED string sabers that inspired this project and to eastern57 of the fx-sabers.com forums for providing a simple English version of the tutorial. Additional credit goes to Bob Lansing of Astro Express Parts, to tarajodijay of Yahoo!, and to the users of finishing.com for PVC painting advice. The generous assistance with and lending of tools by the Physics machine shop of the University of Maryland was also invaluable to the completion of the first prototype. Finally, I would like to thank the University of Maryland Nerf Activity Society for inspiring the geeky creativity necessary to design and build the first of these sabers. May the Force be with you!

Directions by:
Seth Swenson
University of Maryland